Slab vs vertical climbing reddit. And yes we are scared of falling.

Slab vs vertical climbing reddit. 10 ish slab on various rock type maybe a grade lower on pure friction slab. not sure how hard that gets but this v13 looks pretty much just friction, although video quality sucks Nov 4, 2023 · Slabs are often called technical, but climbers rarely say it about overhangs. When I started I could do v2 and muscle through some v3s Now my technique is vastly improved but I’m still climbing v3s and can barley do some v4s. I am terrified of heights and get scared a lot on Honestly, if you’re gym climbing I would stick with a shoe that’s more moderate or neutral. Dec 10, 2015 · I've realized lately that I can climb significantly harder grades on a slab wall compared to overhangs. Recently new to consistent climbing, but I’ve found progressing on slab has been way easier than progressing on overhang. But footwork is the foundation of all technique, and confidence in smearing establishes your connectivity to the rock, even on steeper routes. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. I'm wondering if the scarpa Drago would be a good first soft shoe, or if it would be too demanding on my toes and overall foot strength? And since I have used mostly stiff shoes for all my climbing, even on tenuous slabs, I feel like I’ve trained myself to trust my feet even with less sensitivity. Climbers don’t like the thought of falling when slab climbing because you have more chance of hitting your face on the wall. I could climb vertical routes, dihedrals and slabs up to 5. According to ACI 302. In contrast to traditional or sport climbing on a slab, you will have no protection or gear placed on this short route, and the only way is up! Slab vs Face Climbing Reddit's rock climbing training community. Learn how to master precise footwork, subtle body movements, and effective use of friction on tilted rock surfaces. As you get into the harder grades outdoors, slab often turns into friction climbing on nearly vertical rock. Saw cuts, also called relief cuts, should be timed carefully to control cracking and maintain the integrity of the slab. I get by primarily with passable technique and footwork and okay finger strength, none of which I seem to be able to transfer to climbing on anything worse than a shallow overhang. When sport climbing (both in the gym and outdoor) I like vertical climbs with small, crimpy holds. For example, I can climb a v5 on slab, but I struggle with some V1s and v2s on overhanging routes and even some vertical ones. seconded. On heel up, toe down, I know how to climb technical climbing where I need to toe down on I feel that slab climbing has some good crossover to vertical and slightly overhanging climbing, any much less so when it starts to get really overhanging > 15°. (600 mm) increments as a measure of flatness (Fig. 1 miles / 2300' the slab climbing on algonquin from that side is mostly above treeline so you can pick your line a little easier too. 10c with only little pain (2-3 on a scale from 1-10) around the injured area. A. Reply reply Priff • The climbing hours only include climbing at your intensity and the rests between those climbs. I am Solution comp is the best all rounded bouldering shoes in my mind, while the theory is excellent for slab smearing. The control of cracking due to drying shrinkage and crack control in flexural members, overlays, and mass con-crete construction are covered in detail. I've loved them for everything. Basically, on a slab, you're just pasting your foot against a flat surface (not on an edge like you do inside). Soft shoes on the other hand have less support, making standing on tiny foot chips much more difficult. backshores—shores left in place or shores placed snugly under a concrete slab or structural member after the original formwork and shores have been removed from a small area, without allowing the entire slab or member to deflect or support its self-weight and construction loads. g. I can’t seem to find any articles breaking down the physics of shoes other than “downturned toe does hooks, flat shoe do slabs”. In my climbing vocabulary slab is anything less than vertical, regardless of hold type. What would you call a slab that is less steep than vertical. When you climb a slab, the general rule is that you keep your weight on your feet. This is the case at the gyms I've Here’s my take on it (from someone who has been climbing in these north county gyms for 10 years) If you’re trying to get into rock climbing, you can either start out by bouldering or with top roping. My local gym has one small slab wall and about 3 vertical walls that I would be able to train techniques on however some exercises that I've seen can help, e. haystack from the south is steeper but it doesn't last as long. Anything with 5 or so degrees off of 90 has more in common with vertical climbs but would still count as slab. Sep 22, 2021 · Slab is generally the easiest of the three angles but that depends a lot on the holds and the protection. A contraction joint is formed, sawed, or tooled groove in a concrete structure to create a weakened plane to regulate the location of cracking resulting Choose the right climbing wall angle, from 10-degree slabs for beginners to 45-degree overhangs for pros, to enhance training effectiveness and enjoyment. 11 on slab walls, but then I have a ton of difficulty on some 5. From essential gear to top global locations, this article covers everything you need to navigate the world of less-than-vertical climbs with confidence Any tips for getting better at a roof climb? Its a whole other monster than regular climbs I'm used to. But that might just be me idk. There's a mod for 1. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Depends on the gym, and how comfortable you are outside. Discover the intricacies of slab climbing, a unique style that prioritizes finesse, balance, and technique over sheer strength. I’m able to climb V4-V6 on slab without too much difficulty, but can do V2-V4 overhang using quite a bit of effort. It feels like I'm starting to plateau in my sport grade with a significant gap between vert and overhanging terrain. There are three main bouldering wall types: slab, vertical, and overhang. Indoors there are no small footholds and no long climbs most climbing you will do is either steep or on volumes so soft and downturned. 8. While the softer angle enables climbers to place more of their body weight on their feet, slab climbs maintain the challenge by having smaller holds. I've realized lately that I can climb significantly harder grades on a slab wall compared to overhangs. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. However it seems most of the folks pushing high double digits generally trend toward stiffer shoes The idea of the route is also based on a few constraints. Feb 18, 2023 · Slabs are rock faces that are angled at less than 90 degrees or less than vertical. The principal causes of cracking and recommended crack-control proce-dures are presented. Hi all! I have been climbing for 2. Its a preference thing. That's the point of the grading system. Specifically, on heel down I understand this and I know how to climb up to maybe low 5. Individuals who use this publication in any way assume all risk and accept total responsibility for the application and use of this information. Hardest slab is really hard, like this 14d. Slab climbing is also a different type of climbing compared to overhang and vertical climbing, so some climbers find it harder. Ive been climbing for a bit over a year now and i love slabs to the point where im a good 3 grades above on slab vs overhangs. Most “shoe advice” focuses on aggressive vs non aggressive and fit. I consider myself a fairly high level boulderer. My current gym has a lot of variety (steep, vertical, slab, modern bouldering) Not focusing on comps for the moment, but really trying to push myself to harder routes 337 votes, 50 comments. Context - I've been climbing for 5 years, at anything between V5 to V7 (indoor) depending on style. Apr 3, 2023 · Recently new to consistent climbing, but I’ve found progressing on slab has been way easier than progressing on overhang. This guide covers the design of slabs-on-ground for loads from material stored directly on the slab, storage rack loads, and static and dynamic loads associated with equipment and vehicles. In climbing, a 45* wall is an overhanging wall. ) On the other hand, if you are very comfortable outside you might find indoor climbing much harder (due to lack of friction for shoe scumming, for example) But at the end of the day I would Similar grades, just different styles, apart from a couple of obviously sandbagged routes (looking at you pink one in the corner). The pain went away a few minutes after the climb completely each time, which was okay my doc told me. Concrete cracks are possible on any project, so it’s wise to set reasonable expectations for Additional Definitions Back shores – shores placed under a slab or structural member after the original formwork and shores have been removed from a small area without allowing the entire slab or member to deflect of support its own mass or existing construction loads. In general I find outdoor grades to be more consistent within an area and then within a region than gym grades (even on problems within the same gym. You'll probably be climbing much stronger on slab and slopers than on pinnches and overhangs ATM as they are rarer on toprope. If you're scared and don't put a lot of weight on them, then they slip off. My theory: women tend to feel more competent on slab/vert when they start climbing because this style requires skills that are more applicable to sports and activities young girls are encouraged to do (dance In rock climbing a slab climb (or friction climb) is a type of climbing route where the rock face is 'off-angle' and not fully vertical. As per title, I'm awful at climbing anything on an overhang (V4-6 on slab/vert, V3-4 on overhang). Bouldering is a little easier to get into money-wise because all you need is climbing shoes and a chalk bag but the strength curve is steeper as you start pushing the grades higher. I took a big-ish fall were my foot slipped unexpectedly and i scraped against the wall a lil bit. I can make a 5. One thing I've always wondered, what's the "gold standard" for higher end bouldering when it comes to shoes? I've always liked the softies because I can feel a lot more. 5 miles / 1700' algonquin from lake colden - 2. haystack from panther gorge junction - 1. Curious of what technique this is and if someone can explain mechanically how it works. What is the difference between a contraction joint, isolation joint, expansion joint, construction joint, and a cold joint? A. And yes we are scared of falling. Bounced about a bit, got a sprained ankle, several bruises and a couple nasty Feb 23, 2023 · Scrambling vs Climbing Scrambling and climbing are two activities that people do in the mountains. Bellevue has really good bouldering too but some of it is closed atm. But usually flat and stiff shoes are only good on vertical and slabby terrain where you stand on small footholds or if you need the support for long climbing. Acceptable concrete cracking Q. Difference between a contraction joint, isolation joint, expansion joint, construction joint, and a cold joint Q. The F-number system uses floor surface curvature calculated from elevation differences over 24 in. no hand climbing, are straight up impossible because of the hold variety and angles. Reddit's rock climbing training community. More weight more friction. Climb more things that seem harder and you'll become more well rounded and find this stuff equally easy. The current state of knowledge in microcracking and fracture of concrete is reviewed. Summary of events: Granite friction slab at maybe 70 degrees? Climbing to the anchor from the last bolt, the route heads up and left Fall (bad technique, nerves, whatever) and drop vertical until the rope goes taught and then pendulum sideways somewhat. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Top Open comment sort options Best New Controversial Old Q&A [deleted] • What are the bouldering wall types? Bouldering walls come in all shapes and sizes, and each type of wall presents unique challenges and opportunities for climbers to hone their skills. I was talking with a buddy about different climbing objectives and thought it might be kind of fun to try and get one V10 on each kind of rock. This implies that a vertical slab is a 90* wall. Observations from a fellow slab connoisseur: As a woman with good body awareness and balance, I found slab grades to be much easier than other wall angles at the lower to mid v grades. 2). Some of the earliest forms of rock climbing were on large easy-angled slabs encountered by climbers while Ceiling/roof climbing--easier, harder, the same as vertical climbing? The grading is numerically the same, obviously, but is a V1 on the ceiling the same difficulty as a V1 on the wall? Climbing on the ceiling has been phenomenal for my core strength and confidence, as well as foot technique, but I have no idea how it's all going to grade out! 691 votes, 162 comments. I could only ever do max v2s. Climbing a slab requires a good sense of your feet and how to use them as well as balance and rock shoes with lots of friction. Mar 17, 2022 · After climbing overhangs and vertical walls for some time, you develop certain habits and reflexes, most of which are fundamentally different from slab climbing. However any given climber may find them easier or more difficult depending on the style of route they're used to. What grade the route must be in (my gym has a distribution of different grades of routes), what holds there are to build with, what the wall is like (slab, vertical or overhang), how long is the route, is it used for lead etc. I’m wondering more about how shape of the shoe affects your climbing technique- what toe shape is better for smearing vs edging vs toe hook. I thought the climbing was more interesting than Standard Route while retaining that nice balance between casual stroll up a slab and butt-puckering fear of a cheese grater fall. But if your heart is set on them, by all means go for it! Reply reply galacticpicnicbasket • For top roping / lead climbing Vertical world Seattle and Edgeworks Bellevue are my two favorites because the walls are pretty tall and the setting is really good. Jun 24, 2015 · Basically, on a slab, you're just pasting your foot against a flat surface (not on an edge like you do inside). I’ve been climbing for about 1 1/2 - 2 years and have started to climb around the V6-7 range (in gym). I've (24m) been climbing for 5 years, almost exclusively sport climbing for 2. The definitions provided herein complement that source. They are the best in class for their use case, sure, but that’s not gym bouldering. Eight weeks post-injury:, I tried some indoor lead climbing. What is considered as acceptable concrete cracking in cast-in-place foundation walls and slabs per ACI documents? My company is the concrete contractor on a large warehouse project, and I want to discuss the potential for cracking with the contractor and the owner. Wood decks by their nature also provide some additional visual interest by adding some 3D vertical appeal missing from a very simple patio slab. Is it justified and which rock angle is really harder to master? A comment about the "drop the heels" rule: it works for friction slab or smedgy footholds, but if you're climbing "steep" slab (closer to vertical), this won't work as well because you're relying more on edging than pure friction. Finally rediscovered climbing recently in dec 2023. If you . I climb with heel down to gain more rubber-rock contact. This guide presents state-of-the-art information relative to the construction of slab-on-ground and suspended-slab floors for industrial, commercial, and institutional buildings. After just climbing for two months I’ve progressed to v3. If you’re mostly climbing vertical/slab and the occasional overhang and want a soft shoe, solutions don’t really fit the bill as well as other shoes do. V9 usually takes a few tries, i can knock out most 10s in a session or two. Slabs are rock faces that are angled at less than 90 degrees or less than vertical. Feb 23, 2023 · Scrambling vs Climbing Scrambling and climbing are two activities that people do in the mountains. Would this be a 110* wall? What about a steep hill or even a gentle slope? How do hikers refer to gradient of slope? Is it the opposite to climbers? Wouldn't it make sense for flat ground to be 0*, a steep I have only climbing in relatively hard shoes (Scarpa Vapor), but am looking to move into some softer shoes, to improve technique and foot strength. That's why you're told to trust your feet. 1R-15, saw-cutt the slab surface is, demonstrating the quality of the initial strike off and finishing process. Or you could run "Chisels & Bits" and create greater fine tuning of every pixel of a block. My climbing shoe is the la sportiva solutions, downsized a fair amount - but I don't think this stops me from climbing slab at the level I'm at (even if they Jul 10, 2021 · What is Slab Bouldering Slab bouldering, like the name implies, is bouldering but on a less than vertical rock formation. 5 years and am currently climbing in women's Miura Lace Ups. I climb much harder on overhung routes vs slab, and part of that discrepancy is down to my technique I believe - specifically footwork. Hi, So I’ve been climbing pretty regularly for about 2 years now. i think that's a really important fact and i struggle a lot with it. A contraction joint is formed, sawed, or tooled groove in a concrete structure to create a weakened plane to regulate the location of cracking resulting This guide presents state-of-the-art information relative to the construction of slab-on-ground and suspended-slab floors for industrial, commercial, and institutional buildings. The home of Climbing on reddit. Long-term effects on cracking are considered and crack-control ACI committee documents are intended for the use of individuals who are competent to evaluate the significance and limitations of its content and recommendations and who will accept responsibility for the application of the mate-rial it contains. What Angle Is Slab Climbing? Slab climbing is technically any angle less than 90 degrees from horizontal. There’s no distinct hold keeping your foot on the wall, just rubber to rock and a whole lot of thoughts and prayers. Pretty sure the pendulum part is where all the damage came from. They’re normally considered separate activities from regular hiking, which is when you walk along trails and only occasionally need to use your hands to pull yourself up over an obstacle. My weight is probably the biggest issue, I am 210 lbs @ 5’9 but a lot of it is muscle (powerlifting background). Jan 31, 2022 · Today, with so many climbers learning technique in a vertical-walled gym environment, slab climbing has become somewhat of a lost art. Unpopular opinion, if you are still learning techniques and climbing lower grades, get a cheaper pair (La sportiva Finale, or something) to climb on V2s and practice V5s and wear your solution comp when you are ready to send it. 9 called "Building Bricks" which has vertical slabs for everything, as well as stairs, regular slabs and walls. 1. Good footwork is just an extension of good body positioning, as you need to know how and where you can place your feet to find that best body position. VS slabs should be objectively no easier or harder than steep VS routes. in slabs my footwork is good enough (due to climbing a loot of slabs in my youth and climbing in the slick swabian jura). 10as. I just love the feeling of hauling my ass upwards using only small pieces of rock or plastic. Vertical world's bouldering is just okay imo. I gym climb 2-3/week, primarily sport climb when outside (a variety of styles but not too much overhang at this point) and occasionally boulder outside. For me it was a mental thing. My lace-ups are deteriorating and I'm looking to upgrade now but to a shoe with a similar fit and stiffness. But of course they have their disadvantages as you point out. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. A subsection of slab is friction slab, which sounds like what you are talking about (again just my vocab for it). While a 60* wall is less steep. And so you're relying on friction. Warming up and socializing past your rest times would extend the total time. It is applicable to the construction of normalweight and struc-tural lightweight concrete floors and slabs made with conven-tional portland and blended cements. I would have ended sessions earlier, taken longer rests during sessions, and tried to climb harder stuff more mindfully (thankfully I always enjoyed climbing with different body types and strengths of climbers, so I naturally experimented with movement and technique in attempting to emulate the shorter, but technically-climbing woman, or the Could it be a mental block? I started climbing in 2019, climbed for a year, pandemic hit, stopped climbing when gyms closed. zwfse hckha qbofpkw dyuhd mmbzvj ljuwy hxuy ohae bhgby otxwwjcr