Pbus belay method. Slip-slap-slide is illustrated on p.

Pbus belay method. Belaying has changed over my lifetime and it will probably change again. You will first learn how to tie into a harness and belay using the PBUS belay method preferred and the Whitman Col lege Climbing Center. Please keep in mind that watching a YouTube video about belaying is an extremely unsafe substitute to taking a class and will likely result in failing the belay test. There are different types of belay devices and the belay technique may be slightly different for each one. Climbing Skills: PBUS Belay Method For Top Rope Climbing Posted By Snook In Climbing How-To's, Climbing Techniques On Oct 3, 2014 Knowing how to belay properly and safely is one of the most essential skills in rock climbing. You do not need to take the belay class before climbing at CRG Watertown. If you are an experienced climber and know the PLUS or PBUS belay method then we have a simple test you can do to show you are competent with the process. As the names suggest, its basically 3 main movements instead of 4. Perform the the PBUS belay method. Belay in a way you are comfortable and proficient in. If you do not know how to belay you will need to take a class at another CRG location. How to put on a harness2. I don't like it because, especially with a new belayer, I really like the being locked off basically all the time. Sport climbers must master the PBUS method (Pull, Brake, Under, Slide) to efficiently take in slack and protect the leader. Before you tie in or set Oct 22, 2013 · One of the most important baseline skills is toprope belaying. Formal Test-Out belay clinics are offered weekly for the Fall semester at a time TBA. And please keep in mind that watching a YouTube video about belaying is an extremely unsafe substitute to taking a class and will likely result in failing the belay test. Apr 28, 2025 · The PBUS method—which stands for pull, brake, under, slide—is a tried and true technique that will ensure your hand never leaves the brake strand, while providing a safe belay. this article explains how to belay for top rope climbing. Oct 15, 2021 · How to Belay a Lead Climber To safely and efficiently belay up and down a rock face, experienced climbers and their belayers follow consistent belaying steps. You will also have the opportunity to learn how to solo belay using the PBUS (pull, brake, under, slide) method. Feb 13, 2018 · The most common way of belaying is called PBUS, which stands for Pull, Brake, Under, Slide. Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventures (CMRCA) is a leading provider of rock climbing, caving, leadership development and experiential education in Thailand. Climbing? Climb on. This video illustrates the B. Jan 9, 2024 · We'll explore "How to Belay: The Ultimate Guide to Belaying" in this extensive guide, with a particular emphasis on the tube-style device. Dec 11, 2014 · On a scholarship from the Seattle Climbing Committee, two volunteer Mountaineers leaders attended an American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) single pitch instructor training course. Sometimes PBUS belaying isn't an option because of the belayer's position. Belay On This class will teach you all of the basics of belaying safely in our gym! You will learn how to tie in (as the climber) with a figure eight follow-through knot, how to belay a climber on top rope with the PBUS method, how to catch a fall, and how to lower the climber back down to the ground. Next, grip the climber Sep 8, 2024 · Mastering the PBUS Belay Method Learning how to belay safely is key for your safety and your climbing partner’s. Identify all pre-climb checks and commands. Some common types include tubular devices, assisted braking devices, and figure-eight devices. As a result, they returned with techniques and methods that were presented and adopted by the Seattle Climbing Committee: (1) the extended rappel and (2) the pull, break, under, slide belay technique. PBUS The top-roping belay technique commonly known as PBUS resonates with climbing instructors and mentors because it emphasizes the fundamental principles so distinctly. In this case the Slip Slap Slide technique may be a better option. The technique described here is the only one that Petzl Register Participant This activity is part of the Learn to Belay - Seattle - 2015 course. Stay safe. Register Participant This activity is part of the Learn to Belay - Seattle - 2015 course. The brake hand must grip the brake strand at all times and the system must be in brake position when sliding the brake hand up. Looking for advice from experienced climbers please. It was a difficult initial transition, but, for toprope at least, the Danish method seemed even safer to me than the PBUS method (especially if there are no friction bars or the like to minimize the effect of weight differences between climbers). Several years ago a movement developed in the climbing community to standardize belaying. Whereas, in the PBUS method, the belayer is already in the break, closer to the center or gravity, and closer to the body (under compression). You will practice climbing and belaying (with a backup belayer) for the remainder of the clinic and probably be ready to take a proficiency test the next time they Do I have to take a belay class in order to climb? If you are an experienced climber and know the PBUS belay method, then we have a simple test you can do to show you are competent with the process. Brake Under Slide OutdoorEducation. Climbing Skills: PBUS Belay Method For Top Rope Climbing Posted By Snook In Climbing How-To's, Climbing Techniques On Oct 3, 2014 When you see that the quickdraw is clipped or hear the command “Clipped!” draw in extra slack using the PBUS method like you would for an ascending top rope climber. Brake: Lock the rope in the brake hand. Pull the slack through the belay device. What is Belaying? A definition for the term “belay” Explain some foundational principles of good belay technique Review the recommended method of belaying Decipher PBUS belay technique Trainer tips that help improve belayer’s skills Additional Resources The Allusionist – A Podcast About Language on Apple Podcasts Aug 23, 2019 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Perform the the PBUS belay method. The sequence we follow is PULL, BRAKE, UNDER, SLIDE (PBUS). In this video Julie Ellison, Climbing Magazine Gear Editor, shows how to belay a Sep 17, 2024 · This two-hour clinic is designed for people who want to learn how to top rope, climb, and belay. Belay Certification Class at Ricky Jeffers blog Belay Safety Checks learn the basics of top rope belaying, including gear, setup, safety checks and procedures, plus the pbus method and. You do this by taking the slack rope out of the system by using the Petzl PBUS belay method, maintaining a safe position for the climber. 1. Oct 3, 2014 · Knowing how to belay properly and safely is one of the most essential skills in rock climbing. Belaying with an ATC involves knowing how to: Set up the ATC belay device Belay … Properly loaded belay device (we highly recommend a tube-style device) At The Pad, we use the PBUS Belay Technique: Pull Brake Under Slide We want to make sure you know your safety lingo! Be sure to know these climbing commands prior to climbing and during: On belay? Belay on. If you do not know how to belay you will need to take our Intro to Belay class. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Take Slack Falling Lower 11 votes, 25 comments. Jun 19, 2023 · The top-roping belay technique commonly known as PBUS resonates with climbing instructors and mentors because it emphasizes the fundamental principles so distinctly. If you already have experience, you may choose to opt out of a clinic and test to become belay qualified at anytime during open hours. Feb 13, 2018 · The most common way of belaying is called PBUS, which stands for Pull, Brake, Under, Slide. The PBUS belay method is an excellent belay technique that ensures the brake May 6, 2012 · Sometime in the early 2000’s a new belay method came into vogue called the Hands Down or the PBUS. Taking Slack: PBUS Technique There are a couple of methods of belaying, but the PBUS (Pull, Brake, Under, Slide) is perhaps the most popular. How to Belay From Beginner to Advanced — American Alpine Club Belaying Top Rope learn the basics of top rope belaying, including gear, setup, safety checks and procedures, plus the pbus method and. The GRIGRI is a belay device with assisted braking. Classes are free for members and a small fee for non members. in is a self funded initiative to develop and share resources which will help make the outdoor experience safe and accessible for everyone. The PBUS method is widely endorsed as the most effective way to minimize misuse and prevent bad habits amongst new and experienced users alike. SUNY Cortland uses the PBUS belay method. In this video, CMRCA guide demonstrates how to belay a top rope climber using the PBUS belay method. PBUS stands for Pu Whats Covered in the Video1. Feb 22, 2020 · Belaying is an often overlooked, but essential skill to safe climbing, we share how to belay when climbing safely for top roping and lead climbing. This method caught up to and made better use of today’s belay devices by using a hands down method that keeps the your hands below the belay device. Tie-in together. S. However, you would need a partner who is belay certified in order for you to have access to climb our rope walls. If you do not know how to belay you will need to take the class. The result was the PBUS Universal Belay Standard. By using the V to the knee 1,2,3 system we can always keep control of the dead rope This is the method I learned first, except that you don't "drop the brake hand", you just slide it down the rope so you can brake at a moment's notice. If its your first time in the gym, we will give you a quick belay check to ensure that you have the proper knowledge and skills needed to safely belay. You will practice climbing and belaying (with a backup belayer) for the remainder of the clinic and probably be ready to take a proficiency test the next time they Mar 23, 2024 · As the climber ascends, use the Pull-Brake-Under-Slide (PBUS) belay technique to remove slack from the system and keep the climbing rope taut. You will first learn how to tie into a harness and belay using the PBUS belay method preferred and the Whitman College Climbing Center. If you are an experienced climber and know the PBUS belay method then we have a simple test you can do upon arrival to the facility to show you are competent with the process. On the flip side of that, I've seen plenty of hands off off brake strands with people fumbling with a method they clearly don't understand. How to top-rope belay The most common technique for top-rope belaying is called the “PBUS” method. also anyone notice in that petzl video, linked above, behind the woman presenter at the start the belayer is using VK123 or PBUS not what they are advocating! If you are an experienced climber and know the PLUS or PBUS belay method then we have a simple test you can do to show you are competent with the process. Using a belay device makes it possible for the belayer’s limited grip strength to control the large forces generated in a fall. Understanding the commands and when to use them Whats Require Sep 6, 2023 · This two-hour clinic is designed for people who want to learn how to top rope, climb, and belay. Find answers about memberships, youth programs, parties, and more. Want to AboutPressCopyrightContact usCreatorsAdvertiseDevelopersTermsPrivacyPolicy & SafetyHow YouTube worksTest new featuresNFL Sunday Ticket© 2025 Google LLC Do I have to take a belay class in order to climb? If you are an experienced climber and know the PBUS belay method, then we have a simple test you can do to show you are competent with the process. This article covers how to belay with an ATC. If you do not know how to belay you can sign up to take one of our classes. PBUS for taking in slack on lead is just too many movements and you never want to short rope your climber because you're fiddling around with PBUS. Please be aware that ABDs are NOT considered auto-locking or foolproof. PBUS is an acronym for the following: In other words, your guide hand is on the line coming out of the device and running up the rock to the climber. When they are ready to come down, you lower them at a controlled, measured pace. After the climber reaches the top of the climb, take out all the slack and prepare to lower. Register Participant This activity is part of the Learn to Belay - Seattle - 2016 course. Demonstration of PBUS movement of belaying. You will practice climbing and belaying (with a backup belayer) for the remainder of the clinic and probably be ready to take a proficiency test the next time they If you are an experienced climber and know the PBUS belay method, then we have a simple test you can do to show you are competent with the process. It teaches that one particular hand (usually a person's strong hand) will stay on the brake rope at Dec 20, 2018 · Proper belay techniques using the PBUS System. I prefer PBUS though since I can belay faster that way and it feels more secure to me. Attentive belaying and using the PBUS (Pull-Brake-Under-Slide) belay method is always required at Eagle Climbing + Fitness. How to set up the system as a belayer3. Do I have to take a belay class in order to climb? If you are an experienced climber and know the PBUS belay method, then we have a simple test you can do to show you are competent with the process. U. Almost universally, most guides are now teaching the PBUS technique to beginners. Feb 11, 2025 · This two-hour clinic is designed for people who want to learn how to top rope, climb, and belay. Please keep in mind that watching a YouTube video about belaying is an extremely unsafe substitute for taking a class and will likely There are several belay techniques that climbers should master: PBUS stands for Pull, Brake, Under, and Slide. The PBUS belay method is an excellent belay technique that ensures the brake hand never leaves the rope. The PBUS (Pull, Brake, Under, Slide) method is the top choice for safe belaying. Learn the basics of top rope belaying, including gear, setup, safety checks and procedures, plus the PBUS method and how to lower a climber. Mar 15, 2016 · PBUS has the added benefit of being easy to instruct, easy to belay latent elasticity, easy to accommodate an effective backup belay, easily transferable to other tools like an Assisted Braking Device. Belaying is a critical skill that every climber has to learn early on. Learn to belay using the PBUS method. This article covers everything from setup to lowering the climber, so it's perfect for beginners and experienced climbers alike. To register for the course, register or cancel lectures and field trips, or cancel entirely from the course, visit the course page. It is very safe because it does not allow to switch hands on the brake rope. May 11, 2022 · The PBUS Belay Method consists of a four-part process which is best learned with the acronym PBUS (pull, brake, under, slide). If you are an experienced climber and know the PBUS belay method than we have a simple test you can do to show you are competent with the process. Perform the correct lowering technique with a belay device. Slip-slap-slide is illustrated on p. If you do not know how to belay you will need the class. If you only want Dec 11, 2016 · PLUS is the most error-free top rope belaying technique. Switching hands on the brake rope increases the chance of Feb 13, 2018 · The most common way of belaying is called PBUS, which stands for Pull, Brake, Under, Slide. Jan 16, 2020 · Belaying is arguably the most important skill in climbing so learning how to belay— and how to belay well — is essential! You’ll need to be able to demonstrate your ability to safely and effectively: Tie in correctly with a figure-8 follow-through knot backed up with a safety knot. We use this technique at our indoor climbing wall and at our challenge course. Always maintain control of the brake strand with the brake hand. Do I have to take a belay class in order to climb? If you are an experienced climber and know the PBUS belay method than we have a simple test you can do to show you are competent with the process. In this REI Expert Advice video, we show you how to prepare to belay, perform a safety check, belay with the proper PBUS (Pull, Brake, Under, Slide) method and lower the climber once he or she No description has been added to this video. You don't need to keep the belay tight. In this video, CMRCA guide Ooan Kongsingh demonstrates how to belay a top rope climber using the PBUS belay method. In trad climbing, where the protection is placed by the leader, a more attentive and adaptable belaying style is required. Upon An evening workshop to learn some basic movement on rock, how to tie in to a top-rope, how to belay on a top-rope using the PBUS belay method (pull, brake, under, slide), and how to stay safe when climbing. Successful completion of this class and the subsequent required three skills checks will allow those aged 16 and older to belay on any of the 50 top rope stations. You will practice climbing and belaying (with a backup belayer) for the remainder of the clinic and probably be ready to take a proficiency test the next time they You will learn how to properly tie a figure-8 follow through knot, to top rope belay using the PBUS belay method, and how to use a assisted braking device to belay your climber. also anyone notice in that petzl video, linked above, behind the woman presenter at the start the belayer is using VK123 or PBUS not what they are advocating! Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. View frequently asked questions about Sender One Climbing and Sender City. How Risky or Not Risky is to Tunnel Brake Hand Up when you are taking Slack during Lead Belay? I have seen many arguing about this, so decided to do these experiments so many can argue even more :D Massive thanks to my friends who helped to film this episode: / charliedanfarrow / meel. You're not trying to haul your climber up (I hope). We Go In Depth With Our Top Tips and Tricks to Safe Belaying. This is a popular method that emphasizes safety and is easy to learn for beginners. If you already know how to belay, including forming a proper double figure-eight knot with backup and the PBUS belay method (Pull, Brake, Under, Slide), you can take the test upon arrival and if you pass, you will be allowed to belay others immediately. WARNING: the hand on the brake side slides along the rope, but must never let go of the rope. Lesson Objectives After reading this page students should be able to: Demonstrate correct setup and use of belay device including proper hand technique for top-rope belay from the ground (PBUS) Understand belay safety checks Demonstrate proper voice command sequences while belaying Demonstrate A-B-C positioning Understand belay from above Sep 25, 2021 · The standard belaying method taught to beginners at a gym these days is PBUS, which you can find out about by googling. You will practice climbing and belaying (with a backu p belayer) for the remainder of the clinic and probably be ready to take a Feb 12, 2018 · How to belay I have learned two types of belay techniques: pull, brake, under, slide (PBUS) or slip-slap-slide. How Risky or Not Risky is to Tunnel Brake Hand Up when you are taking Slack during Lead Belay?I have seen many arguing about this, so decided to do these exp The thing about PBUS (and, truthfully, the pinch method provided that you habitually go into brake position between each cycle) is that I can, on top rope at least, belay effectively without having to watch my climber at all. Learn How To Belay Safely. Jan 19, 2016 · If you are an experienced climber and know the PBUS belay method, then we have a simple test you can do to show you are competent with the process. Here, you’ll find out how to use the PBUS technique and the important commands for talking with your partner while climbing. Jun 30, 2023 · If you let your brake hand get too close to the belay device, you minimize your holding power and also risk your hand getting pinched in the device, so make sure you’re aware of where it is at all times. Top Rope Belay Technique To give a solid top rope belay, you should always check your system for safety, then follow the PBUS protocol (see below) to belay. Aug 7, 2025 · In order to belay safely, learn how to setup your belay device and practice the PBUS (Pull, Brake, Under, Slide) system. Jun 8, 2017 · Having slack in the rope is way more unsafe than how you're pulling it through your belay device; sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do, and just because there is a preferred, safer method, doesn't mean that all other methods are dangerous. You’ll need to be able to demonstrate your ability to safely and effectively: Tie in correctly with a figure-8 follow-through knot backed up with a safety knot. PLUS is a standardized belay method for top rope belaying. Jun 20, 2013 · Learn how to use the proper top-rope belay method for indoor rock climbing from climbing expert Cliff Simanski in this Howcast video. Each device has its unique features and functions, but they all serve the same purpose of controlling rope tension to Dec 15, 2020 · To do this, you use what we call the PBUS method (Pull, Break, Under, Slide): Pull: Pull the rope downward with your guide hand while lifting the brake rope out and up forming a V shape that starts in your belay device. Perform the correct lowering technique with a belay device. If you only want During this class our instructors will cover the figure eight knot, PBUS belay method, how to safely give and take slack and how to communicate with your belay partner. Pull or take in the rope slack as the climber ascends the climbing wall. Gyms (and guides) have adopted the PBUS as the preferred technique. Belay Technique - PBUS or Bust! The following are the standard motions we require at LCC for safe belay technique. . Slide: Reset your hands while keeping control. PBUS or PLUS Belay Method When it comes to rock climbing safety, mastering the standard top-rope belay method is crucial. Climbing Magazine is producing a series of How To videos in 2012 to demonstrate a number of skills and techniques. Oct 30, 2019 · PBUS (pull, brake, under, slide) is much much closer to VK123 than to the sliding tunnel method being recommended/discussed here. There are other methods you'll sometimes see used, usually by older climbers, but the method you were taught has never been a standard one. Get the skills needed to safely belay on a ropes course, including how to fasten your climbing harness, tie a figure 8 knot, and participate in a team belay. At the end of the day, how much you are paying attention far outweighs what method you use. ” First, load the rope through your belay device such that the strand leading to the climber extends from the opening closest to your body, and the spare end of the rope extends from the other opening, nearer to the wall. Under: Guide the rope under the brake hand. The following method applies to belaying a lead climber from below. Just for the sake of argument (I'm all for the PBUS method, its what I use and teach) the old "slip-slap-slide" method is just a tad easier and faster. Here is a video demonstrating PBUS. If you only want to If you are an experienced climber and know the PBUS belay method, then we have a simple test you can do to show you are competent with the process. more Nov 14, 2024 · The Role of PBUS in Belaying PBUS (Pull, Brake, Under, Slide) is the fundamental belay method used with tube-style devices. It provides a more comfortable stance than taking up slack with the PBUS method. An evening workshop to learn some basic movement on rock, how to tie in to a top-rope, how to belay on a top-rope using the PBUS belay method (pull, brake, under, slide), and how to stay safe when climbing. 161 of Freedom of the Each of the three techniques outlined below comes with a set of pros and cons that makes it the preferred methods of certain groups of climbers, instructors, and programs. Technique 2: shuffle technique Recommended technique for quickly taking up lots of slack or when there is no tension in the climber-side rope. We'll cover how to set up your belay device and perform a standard top rope belay. What is the correct way to do this (including illustrations)? Apr 3, 2018 · Just bring your right hand (still holding the brake strand) up underneath your belay device, then put your left hand "under" aka behind your right hand, and slide the right hand up along the brake strand. Do I have to take a belay class in order to climb? If you are an experienced climber and know the PBUS belay method then we have a simple test you can do upon arrival to the facility to show you are competent with the process. Feb 1, 2022 · Here’s the rundown. So to the gym employee, it just looks like you have no clue what you're doing. Sep 4, 2024 · During this class our instructors will cover the figure eight knot, PBUS belay method, how to safely give and take slack and how to communicate with your belay partner. If you only want Jan 29, 2024 · This two-hour clinic is designed for people who want to learn how to top rope, climb, and belay. PBUS stands for “Pull, Brake, Under, Slide. A dynamic belay can help in reducing the force on the protection system and the climber during a fall by slightly elongating the catch. belay technique. ow to top rope\, climb\, and belay. We were required to learn the method described by the OP when climbing in Copenhagen. The Importance of Proper Belay Techniques in Climbing One key aspect of proper belay techniques is understanding the different types of belay devices available and how they work. If you want to top rope climb with a partner you need to know how to tie into a harness and belay with a belay device! There is no substitute for proper instruction from someone qualified to teach you how to properly belay, but this article should help you freshen up your skills so you feel confident in taking a belay test! Mar 21, 2024 · 9. how to Oct 30, 2019 · PBUS (pull, brake, under, slide) is much much closer to VK123 than to the sliding tunnel method being recommended/discussed here. A step by step guide on how to belay your climber safely and efficiently. Dec 1, 2016 · This blog has a discussion of the slip-slap-slide and PBUS techniques for taking in rope when belaying. The most dangerous aspect of rock climbing is the human condition. Belaying starts by tying into the same climbing rope. This method is now the standard for climbing gyms, climbing schools and guide companies to teach. We’ll be demonstrating the PBUS method of belaying. The belay technique is very close to the generic technique, but has a few specifics. This technique ensures a secure grip on the rope while allowing smooth feeding or braking: Pull: Bring the rope through the device. PULL: With your guide hand (non-dominant hand), pull downward on the climber’s side of the rope above your belay device, while also lifting your brake hand (dominant hand) up and out to take in slack. I've been climbing for about two years and my belay technique consists of… During this class our instructors will cover the figure eight knot, PBUS belay method, how to safely give and take slack and how to communicate with your belay partner. Identify all My local gym requires PBUS (pull brake under slide) technique for top rope belaying, but they're totally fine with tunnel method for lead belaying. This technique, known as PBUS or PLUS, plays a fundamental role in ensuring the climber's and the belayer's security. fay / tanyafarrow / _anabergamaschi_ If you are getting value out of my videos and wanna feel good During this class our instructors will cover the figure eight knot, PBUS belay method, how to safely give and take slack and how to communicate with your belay partner. fhtcy dsn mvux grchb zbtrxc qwsatj usqzbh efvtydqj dwfck ickzhf