Belay device use. It secures a climber as they are going up or down the wall.

Belay device use. 5 to 11 mm Aug 5, 2025 · What is an ATC A Black Diamond ATC is a belay and rappel device made by the gear manufacturer, Black Diamond Equipment. This comprehensive guide provides a step-by-step process to ensure safe and effective rope management, allowing climbers to support their partners while minimizing risks. It's only slightly slower and once you have it dialed it's actually pretty Jul 4, 2022 · The Petzl Reverso device allows you to up your climbing game whilst out at the crag. Dec 16, 2022 · Belay devices are used in top rope and lead climbing. Perfect for single-pitch climbs. With the right belay device, a small, weak climber can easily arrest the fall of a much heavier partner. Step 1 Push a loop of rope through one of the slots on the device. Just have one partner lower and the other rappel. This is by no means the safest way as there is no backup prussic loop and rope will move very quickly through this device. 5mm ropes, and Mammut recommends using their Smart HMS carabiner with this device (it has a safety Why does anyone feel the need to bring an extra belay device on a climb? Having been in situations where my partner and I only had one belay device, I never even considered using any fancy biner break/backup device/etc. The classic figure-8 belay device is approved for rappel, and many climbers believe it's more suited to that than belay. Apr 28, 2025 · If you’re a newer climber, learning how to give a safe and proper toprope belay will also make you a much more desirable climbing partner. Belaying with an ATC involves knowing how to: Set up the ATC belay device Belay … A belay device is a mechanical piece of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying. Does it need an introduction? GRIGRI sets the standard for belay devices. It secures a climber as they are going up or down the wall. It allows you to belay your climbing partner, rappel, and use Reverso mode to belay one or two seconds. The device enables a climber to ascend indoor routes on a top rope but without the need for a human belaying partner. Read our review to see why it's our climbing editor's first choice. How does it stack up to the Grigri? We put it to the test. Dec 13, 2023 · Improper use of the cam—like holding the lever all the way open—might also present a dangerous situation. It involves a system of ropes, harnesses, and belay devices that allow one… Belay techniques are an essential component of rock climbing and other vertical activities, serving as a critical safety measure for both climbers and belayers. It is an essential device for climbing safety. In fact, there are very few products created specifically for rappelling; they are all belay devices that, with a slight modification to technique, can be used to rappel. Take your belay game to the next level. According to my research, the best rappelling devices for canyoneering include: SQWUREL 2 Canyonwerks CRITR 2 Petzl PIRANA Sterling ATS Belay/Rappel Device Figure 8/ATC Those are five strong candidates that will get you down any rappel that you need. For an overview of basic climbing gear, see Getting Started Rock Climbing. Jan 3, 2024 · But what is the best belay device to use? There’s a whole lot of different belay devices out there, but today, let’s take a look at two of the most popular belay devices out there: the Petzl Gri-Gri and the ATC – their respective advantages, disadvantages and best applications. One non-essential item many climbers also take is rappel gloves, especially if they will be doing multiple rappels. The rope, harness, and rappel device protect the rappeler against a fall. Jul 8, 2021 · What is ATC Climbing Anyway? The ATC is one of the most common belay devices used in rock climbing. Equipped with an ergonomic handle, providing easy control for a smooth and comfortable descent for the climber. One such vital piece of equipment is the belay device. Aug 13, 2024 · The Edelrid Pinch is a much-anticipated assisted braking belay device. A rappel device is one of the most important pieces of rappelling gear. Method 2: Belaying Directly from your Harness Attach your belay device to either your belay loop or rope loop. 3 ounces, it's also light and affordable Grigri. In the gym or at the crag, it makes belaying easier with cam-assisted blocking. 00:00 Intro02:07 Tube Style Devices06:00 Assi Your life depends on a belay device just as your partner’s does too. Caving, mountaineering, multi-pitch, cragging, canyoning, each activity has its device. For top-roping, a belayer takes slack out of the system through the device to keep the rope taut. It is important to clip through both of these Jan 4, 2024 · We break down every type of belay device and talk about where belaying started, and talk about which devices work best for your style of climbing. There are different types of belay devices and the belay technique may be slightly different for each one. It feeds slack with ease, securely catches lead falls, and securely auto-blocks when belaying a follower from above on multi-pitch routes. [1] It is designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. Gearing Up to Belay When you take a belay class, typically a rope, harness, helmet (if climbing outdoors), locking carabiner, belay device and rock shoes are either provided or available for rent. As with anything, they each have their advantages and disadvantages, and a lot of the distinction between them is going to come down to personal Dec 22, 2022 · Discover the side-by-side comparison of the GriGri vs ATC belaying devices: history, pros and cons, best use. Take a belay class from a climbing instructor anywhere in the world. It’s also about having the right gear and understanding how to use it. Take your belay game to the next level with the NEOX ® The NEOX® is an assisted blocking belay device for the gym and the crag. For the belayer that wants versatility! With an anti-panic handle that makes it particularly suited for learning, the GRIGRI + is a cam-assisted blocking device for climbing in the gym or outside. Known for being versatile and lightweight, REVERSO is a belay device for single or multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering. WHAT devices will be permitted? Mar 15, 2016 · Unlike the terrain or body belay techniques used historically in rock climbing, a modern belay device introduces a more consistent and functional supply of friction to a belay system. Oct 1, 2021 · When used properly, any belay device is safe to use. But with so many available, how do you decide which one is right for you? This article breaks down the most common types of belay devices, the best belay devices for different disciplines of climbing, and, of course, when to choose a Grigri over an ATC (and vice versa). A device used by belayers to pull a lifeline through as a climber climbs, and to stop it from moving when a climber falls. You'll also practice the physical skills of taking in and giving out slack, catching falls, and lowering climbers. The result is a comprehensive comparison-tested review, and some Understand the differences between all Belaying Devices and Learn how to use any of them Safely and Efficiently. It's not the absolute cheapest option but is the Nov 22, 2016 · Amazon. Mar 16, 2022 · But nearly every belay device uses the same general principles to function and operate correctly. Lightweight and multipurpose, the Reverso can both belay and descend climbers with a snag-free, rounded design Jan 7, 2019 · GRIGRI Belay device with cam-assisted blocking. Jul 29, 2019 · What belay device I use is largely determined on what type of climbing I am doing. High friction rope position Low friction rope position This device utilizes a large surface area in contact with a climbing rope to provide sufficient friction along with the proper technique to be used as a belay device or for rappelling. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. Auto belay "TruBlue Speed" auto-belay fixed at the top of an indoor climbing route An auto belay (or autobelay) is a mechanical device for belaying in indoor climbing walls, in both training and competition climbing formats. Weighing in at 2. Tube-style devices are “passive” braking devices that rely on the use of a brake hand on the rope, below the device, to arrest The only advantage of figure 8, when used as a belay device, is the ease of threading of the rope during feeding of the rope to the leader while belaying from the harness, or when retrieving the climber with top rope belay, again in a situation where the belayer is on the ground and belay from the harness. However, it is an Apr 22, 2020 · How to use a climbing belay device in guide mode including lowering, Black Diamond ATC / DMM Pivot JB Mountain Skills 32K subscribers Subscribed Mar 20, 2025 · Introduction to Belay Devices Yes, there are several types of belay devices, each designed to cater to different climbing styles and safety needs. Traditional belay devices use friction to assist you in managing the weight of your climber when you need to catch a fall. You can also take Belay classes from experienced instructors. Since belay devices are not necessarily designed for the purpose of tree climbing, performance varies when compared to other assisted braking descending devices using larger braking cams. This belay device Mar 7, 2023 · Product Description GRIGRI + Belay device with cam-assisted blocking and anti-panic handle, particularly suitable for learning and intensive use. Tips: Mentally prepare yourself before you climb so that you’re in top shape. Jun 1, 2021 · Standard belay devices, carabiners, and quick-draws. Step 2 Clip a screwgate carabiner to your belay loop. Examples of these include tubular devices such as the Black Diamond ATC, or the Petzl Reverso. 2024 Climb Guide Harnesses, Ropes, Pro, Pads, Shoes & More Explore This can be avoided by using a version that has wings. Check all your equipment twice – remember that no one will belay for you when you’re hanging from the rock. These techniques involve the proper use of ropes, harnesses, and belay devices to ensure that a falling climber can be safely caught and lowered to the ground. Step 3 Clip the screwgate carabiner through the rope loop and also through the cable on the belay device. But how do you rappel with an ATC? Which belay device should I use? The available belay devices all range from inexpensive (around $15) to pricey ($150 and up) and offer different things in terms of ease of use, assistance with braking, and additional safety features. These are indirect belays, redirected belays and direct belays. The main difference is Jan 3, 2024 · How To Use a GriGri Belay Device When talking about assisted belay devices, we should first keep in mind that it’s not an auto-locking device, and you’ll still need to dedicate 100% of your attention to the lead climber while holding your hand on the brake end of the rope. An Italian hitch Jan 20, 2023 · Most climbers know intrinsically that there are a few of different methods that a climber might use to belay from the top. Lots of options allow careful adjustment of friction while on rappel. This small but mighty tool plays a crucial role in your climbing experience. 7 to 10. All Petzl belay devices, and those of many other brands, are designed to be used with the same hand placements on the rope and the same basic belay technique. How long does it take to learn how to belay? Dec 5, 2024 · The Petzl Neox easily feeds slack while lead belaying, and also provides a secure catch, making it our favorite belay device for belaying a leader and single-pitch climbing. May 30, 2023 · All top rope and lead climbing belayers must use an approved ABD (Assisted Braking Device) type belay device when belaying another climber. Types of belay devices: Aperture devices Slot plate Tubular Figure 8 . 1 to 9 Jul 18, 2024 · Learn all about how the new NEOX belay device works in this brief video. Symmetry allows flipping that extends the life of the device. However, BD’s ATC was so popular that it had the “Kleenex effect. They allow you to descend a rope by sliding down it. If you rock climb with a rope, you need a belay device. That means that there are no moving parts inside the Smart that cam or pinch the rope to slow it down. For that reason, traditional belay devices are still used in competitive lead climbing. Depending on the type of climb, you will likely opt to use a different belay device at the gym than you would on a multi-pitch for example. Use a canyoneering device for a 6 ml and develop some canyoneering rappel techniques but 6 ml is too thin as a single for mountaineering due to damaging terrain/edges. Nov 22, 2021 · How do belay devices work? A belay device acts as a brake on the climbing rope by applying friction to it. Belay Device A belay device functions as a brake by adding friction to your climbing rope. Most importantly, belay classes emphasize CRITR3 !!! An innovative rappel device from Todd and Desi at Climbing Sutra, now an Imlay Canyon Gear product. We have grouped belay devices into different categories that show how they have evolved over the years: Figure 8s, ATCs, Passive Assisted Braking Devices, and Feb 8, 2024 · Belaying the LEADER directly from the anchor is known as a “fixed point” belay. This article covers how to belay with an ATC. The device, plus the belayer’s quick “braking hand” (which locks off the free end of the rope), helps keep tension on the rope and helps protect the climber at the other end. Hi all, with the release of the Petzl Neox I've seen a lot of discussion about the best application for different devices and was surprised to learn some people even use a different device for belaying a leader vs follower. Basically they are more dangerous than a stitch/tube belay device. Self-braking devices Aperture-style Spring-loaded Aperture Belay Devices Aperture belay devices provide an opening for a loop of rope to pass through. In the old days a climber would finish a line, clip into the anchor and then put his follower Dec 2, 2019 · Taking this a step further, a tree climber can use certain belay devices to capture progress on ascent, and as a rappelling device on descent. Learn how to choose a belay device for rock climbing. The ATC is a friction-based belay and rappel device that uses bends in the rope and contact with the devices surface to increase friction, which then allows for much easier slowing down or stopping of the rope from moving through the device The ATC belay device from Black Diamond is one of the most popular rappel devices in the world. Instead, the rotation of the device against your carabiner is what creates the pinch. 5 to 11 mm, half 7. Following is a quick rundown of each: Indirect Belay An indirect belay is when one belays directly off of his body. Universal Belay Advice: Pay Attention May 11, 2015 · How to use a figure 8 belay device with a single rope. Includes the pros and cons of tubular, assisted braking and Figure 8 devices. This can be set up so the brake rope comes out of either the top or bottom of the belay device – choose whichever way is easier to lock off the brake rope. May 28, 2024 · We rated each device based on factors like ease of use, versatility, safety, and longevity—because when you're hundreds of feet off the deck, you need gear that won't let you down. We break down key differences among the Grigri, Neox, Edelrid Pinch, and more top picks. Some have more safety features added in while others are simpler to use. If you want a nice smooth belay device, get a grigri :) Understanding Belay Devices: Your Lifeline on the Rocks When it comes to climbing, we all know it’s not just about strength and technique. In most situations, the weight of a falling climber will pull down from you These belay devices feature 2 slots for your rope, allowing you to belay, rappel, or climb using a two-rope system. The primary reasons to use this: Prevent the belayer from being violently yanked into the air, slammed against the rock, and potentially being injured or even losing control of the belay Reduces the force on lead protection due to rope slippage Allows a greater chance of actually holding a factor 2 fall. It provides considerable bite for catching lead falls, and it locks off by itself when your partner needs to rest, just like active-assisted brake devices. An example of a tube-style device. There are many different devices. This means that belayers are much Rappelling With Your Belay Device Just about every time you go rappelling, you will do so using a belay device. ATC stands for Air Traffic Control. Learn how to choose a belay device for rock climbing. In some cases, climbers view the GriGri as an auto-locking device as opposed to an assisted-braking device, which might cause the belayer to go hands free. Belaying is a critical skill that every climber has to learn early on. Gloves and chalk You’ll also need both active and passive protection equipment when climbing solo. What are the different types of belay devices? There are several different types of belay devices, but the most common one is the ATC. It's not the absolute cheapest option but is the Feb 22, 2020 · The Black Diamond ATC XP is one of our favorite manual belay devices and provides an excellent value. Optimized for lead climbing at the gym or the crag, the Petzl NEOX has an integrated wheel that allows you to smoothly and quickly pay out slack to the climber. Feb 22, 2020 · We cover the different types of belay devices on the market today, what they're used for and which ones you should be using if you're just starting out. Jan 22, 2025 · Our review of the Edelrid Pinch gave high marks for its light weight, fluency with skinny ropes, and a reliably safe orientation. Learn how here. Universal technique for correct use of a belay device. This device is rated for use with 8. GriGri vs ATC Belay Device: What’s The Difference? What is Jan 14, 2019 · Your ATC Guide or similar plaquette-style belay device is of course great for belay and rappel, but can also be rigged as an ascender. It saves time and is safer imo. Other devices are useful for specific things but for like 99% of situations, a grigri is all around better. ” Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. With assisted braking technology similar to a Grigri, this device ensures smooth and secure control during belaying and rappelling. In this post I’m going to explain the advantages, disadvantages, and helpful strategies of some of the most popular options out there. There are two slots on most devices, it doesn't matter which one you use. It's an ideal device for belaying both leaders and top-ropers, either sport or Find the perfect assisted braking belay device. An internal rotating wheel reduces friction between the rope and the rope-pinching mechanism, making it easy to feed out slack to a leader without activating the assisted braking function. This type of device also includes "guide-style" belay devices, such as the seminal Black Diamond ATC Guid e or the Petzl Reverso, which can also act as assisted braking belay devices when belaying one or two followers directly off Learn the essential techniques and steps for belaying in rock climbing. Mar 27, 2019 · Belay devices: what types? To address each use and every user, Petzl offers two types of device: assisted-braking belay devices belay/rappel devices Assisted-braking belay devices Principle: when the climber falls, the device pivots on the carabiner, the rope tightens, and the cam pinches and blocks the rope. So learn to use a basic tube-style device, and you’ll be able to adapt to any other type or brand within a few minutes of practice. Holding the brake side of the rope helps engage the cam, so it always important to Belaying is an essential skill in the world of climbing, serving as the cornerstone of climber safety. Part of the new wave of rappel devices that allow chang What is a Rappel Device? Rappel devices (also known as Belay Devices) are mechanical brake devices that control the speed of a rope when rappelling (or abseiling). Experience enhanced security with the ATC-Pilot Belay Device. I do personally love and recommend using a double or triple action auto locking biner for your belay device. It is compatible with most rope diameters: single 8. Jul 29, 2024 · Petzl's new Neox is a sleek assisted-braking belay device. You can also clip the bottom loop directly into your biner (see fig 14 here ) but this greatly reduces the friction and can cross load the fig 8. . Check with your climbing instructor to see if you need to bring any additional gear. Jun 26, 2023 · In a belay class, you'll learn about the different types of belaying (top-rope and lead), how to use the belay device, and the importance of communication between the climber and belayer. Learn the basics, features, and benefits of assisted braking belay devices for improved safety and efficiency in climbing. Check out the poll and feel free to Jan 3, 2024 · Why are assisted braking devices so common? Do you need it? We get into the design and function of brake assist and its benefits. Feb 22, 2020 · The Black Diamond ATC XP is one of our favorite manual belay devices and provides an excellent value. If you want to belay with figure 8 you need to know how to use it. A figure 8 (sometimes just referred to as an 8) is used in conjunction with a climbing harness and locking carabiner to control a belayed climber's descent Most lightweight and compact belay device with cam-assisted blocking in the Petzl range: - For belaying both lead and top rope climbers - Optimally balanced design: lightweight (175 g), compact, and durable - Cam-assisted blocking for a more comfortable belay: when the climber falls or weights the system, the rope tightens, and the cam pivots to pinch and block the rope Easy to use: - Easy to Jun 27, 2011 · The new edition of the belaying and abseiling leaflet also places a greater emphasis on issues to consider when choosing both rope and belay device, as each are of equal importance. The selector knob allows the user to Most lightweight and compact belay device with cam-assisted blocking in the Petzl range: - For belaying both lead and top rope climbers - Optimally balanced design: lightweight (175 g), compact, and durable - Cam-assisted blocking for a more comfortable belay: when the climber falls or weights the system, the rope tightens, and the cam pivots to pinch and block the rope Easy to use: - Easy to May 9, 2024 · Based on our research and testing, we think the Petzl Grigri is the best Climbing Belay Device available in 2025. Dec 5, 2024 · The Petzl GriGri is an active assisted-braking device that performs well in every belaying and lowering task, earning our highest honor as the best belay device on the market. 0 is a “ passive ” assisted belay device. Types of belay devices: Your belay May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. That being said, the newer assisted braking devices (ABDs) do offer an added level of safety in the case of simple user error, medical emergencies, or climbing accidents. I show how to attach the rope to the device using a bight of rope and I demonstrate how to ascend/take in slack and how to descend. Dec 5, 2024 · The Edelrid Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking belay device, which means it can be used as both a traditional tube device and an assisted braking device when belaying the leader. How to choose? Aug 6, 2024 · Despite advances in auto belay devices, using a traditional belay device with a human belaying partner is still seen as the safest and best alternative. Ideal for belaying a lead climber, the integrated wheel allows you to smoothly and quickly pay out slack. Feb 21, 2020 · The Mammut Smart 2. Other belay devices include Figure Eight, the GriGri, and the Reverso. com : PETZL GRIGRI + Belay Device With Cam-Assisted Blocking and Anti-Panic Handle, Suitable for Learners and Intensive Use - Grey : Sports & OutdoorsFor the belayer that wants versatility! With an anti-panic handle that makes it particularly suited for learning, the GRIGRI + is a cam-assisted blocking device for climbing in the gym or outside. Proper understanding and selection of these devices can significantly enhance safety and climbing efficiency Belay device, a full history Vertical caving terminology and methods > Ladders, climbs and older techniques Belay device, belaying device, belay, belay plate, Sticht plate, stitch plate, ATC, ABD A very basic ATC belay device, and an auto-locking GriGri. It connects the rappeler to the Belay Devices And Descenders Petzl offers a wide selection of descenders and innovative belay devices designed for all vertical activities. Always read the manufacturer's directions to find out if your current belay device is approved for rappel. Belay devices play a critical role in rock climbing, acting as a system that controls the rope during a climber’s ascent and descent. ATC stands for “Air Traffic Controller”, which is a tube-like belay device manufactured by Black Diamond. Specifically, belay device design, rope design & diameter, characteristics of climber and belayer and the style of climbing are each considered in detail. Compact and lightweight, it can be used with single ropes from 8. But these issues cannot be considered device failure. As someone who pretty much uses the grigri2 for everything, I found this interesting and want to know what r/tradclimbing uses. Oct 23, 2023 · Types of Belay Devices For the purpose of this article, the only two categories of belay devices that will be discussed are tube-style devices and assisted braking devices (ABDs). Here are some tips and the best method for giving a good toprope belay, whether you’re using a tube device like an ATC or a brake-assisted belay device like the grigri. The specific design allows the rope to glide smoothly through the device and reduces wear. tpn ldlnyidb rqjqpkm xzycxqs plzc mun vbif emad mghep zbswmndc